March 8, 2013

FAQ’s

Frequently Asked Questions;

Q; I’m not an electrician can I still install this myself?

A; Most states allow the homeowner or building owner to do his/her own work as long as it meets local codes. Some local codes may require you use an electrician, have it inspected or buy a permit for installation, be sure to check your local codes before installing.

We understand that not everyone is an electrician and while we always recommend to use an electrician if possible, we created our instructional manual for someone with little to no experience with electrical work. Like we said, if you can’t install it send it back for a full refund.

Q; I’ve seen references to switched and unswitched transfer switches, what does that mean?

A; Traditional transfer switches only transfer the Hot leg of power, and the Neutrals are all connected together. Depending on the generator manufacturer, some are built with a bonded neutral. These require the Neutral leg to be switched.

Our transfer switch comes wired to switch the neutral leg of power, required for some local codes, particular generators and (HE) high efficiency appliances. Instructions include a simple bypass to make the transfer switch not switch the neutrals if needed.

Q; Do I need to ground my generator?

A; It’s always recommended to ground your generator, if your generator is plugged into the transfer switch it’s connected to the whole house ground and won’t require a separate ground rod.

Q; Will this back feed power into my circuit breaker panel?

A; Absolutely not possible if wired properly

Q: Why does my GFCI breaker trip on my Generator?

A; There is a path or leakage to ground on either the hot leg or the neutral leg. The GFCI will not allow it’s neutral to be connected with another neutral that has been grounded. It needs to see the neutral treated like a “Hot Leg” Open…not touching anything.

Q; How do I connect the transfer switch when the power goes out?

For the safest use of your generator and transfer switch

  1. Place your transfer switch into the “off” position
  2. Start your generator
  3. Plug a properly sized extension cord into the inlet of the transfer switch (Heavy Duty 15 Amp rating)
  4. Plug the extension cord into your generator
  5. Now switch the transfer switch to the “gen” position

Upon power resuming:

  1. Place your transfer switch into the “off” position
  2. Shut down your generator by placing the switch on your generator into the “off” position
  3. Remove your extension cord
  4. Place your transfer switch back into the “line” normal mode.

Q; How do I determine what size generator I need?

A; Most homes that use gas furnaces or oil burners for either heat or hot water require very little wattage, less than you think. You can look at the nameplate rating on your unit or motor, the amperage required is always listed. Then, it’s just simple math to determine your generator size:

125 volts x amperage rating listed on your nameplate or motor = wattage required

We add 125% for motor start up, this is the initial draw your generator will see.

Example;

We have a gas furnace that lists on the nameplate sticker (usually located on the inside panel) that it has a 1/3 hp motor and is rated at 4.2 amps add in any other motors like the combustion blower rated at 1.0 amp.

125 volts x 5.2  amps  = 650 watts of running power

125% x 650 watts = 813 watts required for starting power. Add in the misc power needed for the control board and were probably around 850+/- watts maximum required.

** A simple 1000 watt generator would run the HEAT in this home **

Q; Will this power my lighting circuits too?

A; The Heezy transfer switch is rated for a maximum of 15 Amps @ 125 Volts AC, that’s 1875 Watts. If the circuit you want to power has a single pole 15A breaker than the HTS15 will work perfectly.